Coming to America!

For all of you listeners out there, i will be leaving Kabul for my vacation on July 28. After a very long, 14 hour flight from Dubai to Atlanta, i will be spending the week of July 4 at the beach in Florida. And not a minute too, soon. I have been very busy with library renovations, book donations, consolidation two separate textbook storerooms (using one wheelbarrow to transport the books!), figuring out how to order textbooks for the fall classes, and various other odds and ends. I am looking forward to the rest and visiting with family and friends back in Tennessee.

While there, if any of you wish to call me, you can reach me on my SkypeIN number, which you already have if i know you :) if not, email me. Just leave a message, and i'll get back to you ASAP. Also, if anyone would like to donate books to the AUAf Library, where i work, just email me (jmalone4@gmail.com) and i can give you an APO box to send them to, it cost the same as sending to another address in the US, but will actually be delivered to me here in Kabul. Amazing, right? So look through those books and let me know!

Hope to see as many of you as possible on my visit.

The Wall Walk

Fat Butt Sheep on Mountainside

Angry Dog

Well, i guess my lungs are finally adjusting to the high altitude here in Kabul. Last weekend, i went for a hike with some friends from AUAf. We did the "Wall Walk," a hiking trail that runs along the ancient wall that runs up the side of one of the small mountains right here in the city. Kabul is nestled in among several of these mountain/hills, with the Kabul River winding its way through the old part of the city. The mountains do not have any trees at all, but are covered with stone and dirt houses along the base. This is where we started our climb, where the wall began, among the houses of the poor people of the city. As we ascended the steps upward along the wall, we received curious stares from the locals, especially from the very small children and young kids.

As we we climbed higher, the houses became less croweded, and the people were obviously poorer, as the very poor had to live where ever they could afford. This usually meant farther up the mountain side, where they have no running water, but have to carry large containers of water up by hand. Even the young kids can be seen carrying heavy water jugs. Along the path we stopped at a small trail side store that sold cold drinks and snacks. The young boy there sold me 4 orange sodas for 50 Afghani (one dollar). I put the drinks in my backpack and we continued up the trail. I had to stop often to catch my breath, but was enjoying the hike. Just as we were passing the final house, walking in the dust and rock, a couple of small boys standing nearby, their dog starts barking and growling at us, lookig down at us from the rooftop of the house that slants back into the side of the mountain. We move a little faster to get past this potential problem....just not fast enough. As our guide Jalil sprints ahead like a mountain goat, puffing on a cigarette, myself, Lisa, Kyle, and John try to keep up. The angry dog feels we are not moving fast enough, so he sneaks up quickly to the back of our single file line, and growling and snarling like he is a ferocious beast. We yell at him thinking he will go away, but no go, and before we know it, he darts in and bites John leg, tearing a hole in the jeans. Everyone kinda freaks. Lisa screams for Jalil. I have everyone go ahead and i pick up rocks and chase the dog back down the path. I did grow up in the hills of Tennessee after all! The dog runs away, but keeps coming back. I have to keep throwing rocks at him as we make our way up the trail. He finally falls back as we move out of his territory. Dang! Even the Afghan dogs are ferocious. It is smooth sailing after that, just a few fat butt sheep grazing on the sparse vegetation along the mountain side. We stop periodically to take in the view. The city looks amazing from this height; you can see the Kabul River winding through the buildings, patches of green puctuating the otherwise dusty landscape. Over to the left, we can see the American University of Afghanistan (AUAf) campus, just up the road from the old Darulaman Palace. Nice to be able to get a birds-eye view of the city. Being down in the streets each day, it is difficult to get a sense of how different parts of the city are connected, especially since we are not allowed to drive, which usually helps me remember how to get around more easily. On our final leg up the mountain, we spot old artillery shells, spent and lying on the ground. Once we even came across what looks like an explosive device sticking out of the ground, so we gingerly step around it. This trail is supposedly clear of all explosives, but you cannot take it for granted, always a possibility of some remaining.

Resting against the wall, Kabul far below

As we reach the summit, the air is so calm, everything so quite. The sounds of the city have dropped away below us. Usually, the wind is energetic here in Kabul, being so close to the desert. We stop here to have drinks and a snack. I lean on my backpack, resting on an outcropping of stone, looking out over the city and the valley below. Jalil, our guide and one of the driver's escorts that work for the university, points to different parts of the city and talks with me about what happen during the time of the Taleban, and when the mujahadeen were fighting among themselves, along ethnic lines. Lot of history just in the last few decades here, not to mention the ancient history. It is almost overwhelming to be here, to experience a personal connection with such a place. We eventually continue along the Wall, which runs along the spine of the mountain. This is the easiest part of the walk. Jalil hangs back to continue our conversation. He is an amazing person, learning English, even those difficult to remember words from the newspapers! He always asks what this word or that word means. It is good to be part of helping someone learn and discover new things. In the process, i learn more about the local culture, a few words in Dari, and feel i am making new friends. When we get to the point where we are to descend down the other side of the mountain, we end up splitting up into two groups, Kyle and Lisa continue down what looks like one trail, and myself, John and Jalil down another trail. Our trail ends quickly, and we end up basically rock climbing down the side of the mountain, slipping and slidding frequently on the loose patches of rock, and grateful when we could jump from one large rock to another. I am not sure this section was actually de-mined, i didn't want to think about it too much. As we finally reached the bottom of the mountain, on the other side, we came upon two young boys heading up into the mountains. One of them was carrying a small cage, with a small bird inside, the other had a small stick and an aluminum bowl. They proudly showed us how they used the bowl and stick to set a trap to catch the bird, and were going for more. I took a photo of them with my digital camera, and let them see it on the view screen. They seemed to be pleased. They only spoke Dari, with our guide Jalil, and offered to take us back to their house down the trail for tea. We thanked them, but declined, and they went on their way. As we came down the bottom of the trail, we were suddenly among the tombs of the dead. This area, one the edge of the city, was a huge area covered with graves, many, Jalil pointed out, were considered "saints" or pure of heart, people who supposedly never committed any sin. As we left the trail and came back to a semi-paved road, we noticed a burial in progress over to the left, at the foot of the hills. It reminded me how we are all alike when it comes to death, the burial site was strangely familiar, brought back memories of saying goodbye to loved ones in my own past. I wondered whose burial was this? How was it affecting the family, the loved ones? Lots of people were grouped near the burial site. As we continued along the road, we met up with Kyle and Lisa, resting on a stone fence along the dusty road, surrounding by a group of curious local kids. We called for our car to pick us up, but we decided to continued walking until it arrived. Many kids, curious about us, trailed behind us, like we were the Pied Piper leading them out of the village. As we walked, the men kept looking our way, not used to seeing a woman, Lisa, without a head covering. We were grateful to be out of the spot light when the car arrived. I was exhausted and my legs very sore. Kyle and I played Ultimate frisbee the day before with a group of internationals and I still had not recovered from that, but the Wall Walk was an awesome experience. If you are ever in Kabul, i highly recommend it.